After a day at Yellow River Game Ranch, Alicia asked me to help her pick the better of two photos which led to a discussion about “working” the depth of field setting can help to remove foreground distractions such as fences.  I told her I’d post a few photos to demonstrate this.

Alicia, as discussed, the following three photos were taken using a tripod set in the exact same spot, with the camera pointed in the exact same direction.  However, the point of focus is different in each so that you can see how much “working” the depth of field can affect your final photo.  These were all taken using a very narrow depth of field, ie. a wide open aperture (smaller number remember) on a telephoto lens.

This first picture is focused on the grass that is right in front of the camera (about two feet away).  You can see (blurry) the two cows in the middle and the mountains in the background.

This picture is focused on the barbed wire fence about 15 feet from the camera.  As you can see, the cows are in much better focus already, so much so that you can tell what the picture actually was.  If you look closely, you can still see the grass in front of the fence but it is already getting lost.

Finally, I focused on the cows about 50 yards away.  As you can see. even the mountains are in pretty good focus but the fence is only slightly visible and the grass is “gone.”

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So like we discussed, the closer you can get to the foreground fence you want to make disappear, the better, and the greater the distance between your subject (the cows) and your foreground (or background) distraction, the blurrier it will get.  Note in the last photo how the grass gets blurrier and blurrier as you get closer to the camera, but everything past the cows is in focus.  This is because the cows were already quite far from the camera so the difference to the mountains didn’t much matter!  Note how even the fence just 15 feet away is too blurry to make out in the first picture because the grass was so much closer – relatively speaking.

OK, so the giraffe photo I told you about…  Notice how the left side of it’s face (right side of the picture ) and it’s nose looks sort of hazy compared to the other side?  If you zoom in, you’ll see that both eyes are in perfect focus as evidenced by the eyelashes.  The “haze” is caused by a light pole that came between us (the tram was moving) just as I took the picture.  Because the light post was so much closer to me than the giraffe, even the six inch or so wide post nearly disappears!

OK, so it still ruined what would have been an awesome shot, but it does make for an interesting depth of field example.  LOL

Another project would be to take the same sort of pictures without moving the camera, focusing on the same subject for each, but changing the aperture two stops each time and going from the largest to smallest opening.  Then compare the photos like this to see the difference the various apertures make on what is otherwise the exact same subject.  How ’bout you try that one? 

So overall Im not overly impressed with my firework shots either… The fireworks were very low and I did not have a lot to work with framing wise where I could also see the fireworks since they were so low.  =(

I really think this firework was interesting and I like how it shows that I was able to get it into better focus with the tripod. I used the same settings I used the night before. (I forgot to mention that I used manual focus sorry dad.) As far as I know I am unable to increase my fstop up to f16 at the same shutter speed. I did not try at any different shutter speeds because I did not want to miss any possibly good photographs. =)

I really like how I was able to capture the burst in this photo and how it created the shape of a star. I thought it was very original!

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I was also able to capture a number of pictures where the firework was just exploding, it created a very nice effect. I definitely feel as though I could crop this picture down to focus in on that.

Lastly I thought this was a perfect exposure time for the finale! I was able to capture multiple burst and it not bee too bright like dad said he encountered.

I think Alicia may have won the challenge.

At Aunt Jan’s , the fireworks were launched pretty much right behind the palm trees.  While that worked pretty well for some shots, it was hard to frame a good burst without either cutting off the tops of the trees or having only the tops of the trees in the bottom of the frame.  On top of that, the camera had trouble with auto focus and manual focus was hard to get right.  I tried f22 to offset focus problems, but that didn’t allow enough light in.  Finally I was able to manually focus on a burst and then leave it set that way.  I had to use f4.5 with a 10 second shutter speed to get multiple bursts because there was a lot of delay between shots.  I also had to just frame the palm trees and keep the shots that burst in that frame.

The worst part is that the breeze that always blows in from the ocean was carrying all the smoke toward us so many of the bursts were behind the smoke.

Below is my best entry into the challenge.  I like it mostly because the burst looks a little bit like a larger, lighted palm tree.

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Lessons learned:
– Manually focus on the first burst and then leave it.
– f4.5 works well at 10 seconds except when they did do rapid fire.  Then you end up with way too much light.
– ALWAYS find a place to watch up wind.  In this case that will always be from a boat which would prevent long exposures because of the rocking of the boat!

This is one of Alicia’s entries from the “qualifying round” with a little bit of cropping.  I think it wins… until she posts something even better from the final round!

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Happy 3rd of July! The Prelude to the 4th was a perfect opportunity to practice taking pictures of fireworks. These are my favorite 7 of 60. I used a shutter speed of 4 or 5, and an aperture of f8. Overall I think they came out really well. One thing I did notice is that I might need to invest in a tripod.

This section includes tips on composition and includes things like ensuring you have a subject, framing, the Rule of Thirds, perspective, and so on.  The comments that follow are attempts to apply one or more of the tips.  To kick it off, I took the following photos on the patio yesterday morning when the early sun was backlighting the hanging baskets and the grapes.  I was trying to find an angle that captured how “awakening” the scene is every morning.  Here’s what I got…

This first photo is the “standard” picture of the scene.  I did make sure I cleaned off the counter top and turned all of the wine bottle lights so that the labels were facing the camera, but other than “documenting” the scene, the photo is otherwise not particularly interesting.

For this one, I tightened up the framing a little bit.  I wasn’t sure I’d like it since it didn’t include the whole outdoor kitchen, but the framing was better.  We now have the plants as our subject but we still don’t have the impact of the lighting effect.

This is what I was after.  Using the rule of thirds and the rule of balance, I placed the bougainvillea in the upper right third, and the reddening grapes in the lower left third.  I shifted the camera just slightly in order to include the patio post on the right to help frame the whole thing.  Now the plants are clearly the subject and we’re close enough to see how the light is highlighting them against the shaded slope.  In the full resolution picture (click on it to open it), you can even see that some of the grapes are backlit as well!
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So, what’s a flower scene without a close up?  Yeah, I had to do it, and while it turned out to be sort of interesting with that tiny little white flower in sharp focus amidst the brightly lit and colorful bracts, the angle is terrible.  I should have climbed up on the counter and taken the shot at a downward angle.       There’s always tomorrow, right?

Finally, just because it was there, I shot this one before getting to work.  I was intrigued by the single red flower brightly lit against the dark green shaded leaves.  I took just this one shot because it worked.  Too close and you have just another flower close up from the wrong angle.  Too far and you have another busy picture.  So instead, I included enough to show that it’s a hanging basket, but I used the widest aperture I had, and my telephoto lens in order to create the smallest depth of field I possibly could.  I had to stand back about ten feet because of the telephoto lens.  But… if you look closely, that single lit flower is the ONLY thing in the photo that is in perfect focus!  The leaves right in front are blurred just a bit, and any background distraction is gone.

OK Alicia… Can’t wait to see what you do with the composition tips! 

Now that we’re done getting more familiar with our cameras (Step 1) and we’ve delved into the technical aspects of making photos vs. taking pictures (Step 5), we’re moving back to Step 2.  But since there are “forty” tips, let’s break this section up and create one post for each tip category.  We can post new photos as comments nested in the appropriate category.  Be sure to explain which tips you applied and why! 

Get Composed

Get Sharp

Get Lit
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Get The Shot

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At this fountain I spent a good 30 min. taking multiple pictures playing with my different modes, shutter speed, and aperture I did so much playing around in no order really so I forgot exactly how I book this picture… even still I had a lot of fun! Which is at least 1/2 of the point!

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This photo I thought was unique, and it actually came out a lot better than I anticipated. I actually attempted to call dad to get help with this picture, but he was busy with Army Duty, so my next comment was I shoulda brought my book! I turned my flash on since to had a bright background and wanted to light what was in the foreground of my picture.

Update: dad asked for a comparison, The first one was my 1st attempt & the last one was just that both I took without the flash.

this last picture is nothing special, just unique. I wanted to capture city lights but I didn’t think it would work due to the lighting in the room we were in. I was right (obviously) but actually kinda liked the way it came out!

After reading Step 1, I wanted Alicia to skip forward to Step 5.  As stated earlier, the author wanted to save the technical nature of Step 5 for later so the reader wouldn’t get discouraged.  Knowing that Alicia is committed to this, I encouraged her to read this section next because these concepts are central to understanding how to get the photo you picture in your mind.

Have you finished Step 5 Alicia?  For everyone else, here’s a summary.  If you are done with it Alicia, does the following capture your understanding?  Do you have questions?  Examples?

Aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are all inter-related and make up the exposure value.  You can get essentially the same exposure by making offsetting changes in these three settings.  In other words, if you speed up the shutter, you can either open the lens wider or change the ISO to make the light sensor more sensitive.  Either offset will yield the same exposure as the original settings (before speeding up the shutter in this example.)  This allows you to get more creative by using a faster or slower shutter speed and/or a wider or narrower aperture depending on the situation and the desired effect.  Personally, I use the lowest ISO setting the camera has as the default because the higher the setting, the more “noise” it can introduce into the photo.  Therefore, I only change the ISO if I really need more range on the shutter speed.

Why would you want a faster or slower shutter speed?  Creative effects is one reason.  A very fast speed can freeze action and a very slow speed can blur action.  Faster speeds also make it easier to hold the camera steady for the duration.  Slower speeds may require a tripod or other stabilization technique, especially when using telephoto lenses because they magnify movements as well as everything else.

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Why care about a wider or narrower aperture?  Creative effects again.  A wide aperture can blur background and foreground features, emphasizing the subject.  A narrow aperture can ensure everything is in focus regardless of varying distances.  This is a phenomenon known as depth of field.  The camera is focused at a particular object or distance and the narrower the lens opening, the greater the range of distances that will still be in focus.  Conversely, the wider the opening, the more precise the focus must be because the depth of field can be extremely small.  Again, this is exaggerated by telephoto lenses.  The more the magnification, the smaller the range of the depth of field.  This is also affected by distance to the focus point since depth of field is relative to the focus distance, ie. if the focus point is far away, the depth of field will be greater than if the focus point is much closer.

Finally, I specifically said “telephoto” lenses in the two paragraphs above.  Often times people refer to them as “zoom” lenses, however, in this case that would be less than accurate.  How much of a scene a lens can capture has everything to do with it’s focal length.  A smaller or “shorter” focal length than “normal” implies that the lens will shrink and distort the image to fit more into the camera’s frame.  This is referred to as a wide angle lens.  A larger or “longer” than normal focal length implies that the lens will magnify the image.  This is referred to as a telephoto lens.  A zoom lens on the other hand, COULD be a telephoto lens, but more accurately is one that can ADJUST the focal length.  When set to it’s shortest focal length, it captures more of the scene.  When moved to a longer focal length, it magnifies everything and it all seems to get closer.  We often refer to this as “zooming in” on the subject, but remember that although it is common usage, a zoom lens can be a wide angle only zoom, a telephoto only zoom, or a combination from slightly wide angle to normal to slightly telephoto.  Also, a telephoto lens does not have to be a zoom lens.  You can have a lens of any focal length which does not zoom (wide angle, normal, or telephoto) and these “non-zoom” lenses are known as “fixed” lenses because they only have one focal length.  There are many reasons why you might want a fixed lens.  Often the quality is better, they usually allow more light to pass through them making them “faster” or more capable of faster shutter speeds and lower light conditions.  While often “better” for their specific purpose, fixed lenses are not nearly as versatile as zoom lenses so most cameras without the capability to change lenses utilize a zoom lens, and most people with SLR cameras use a zoom lens as their default lens.

So…  On to step 2 and a little closer to our projects!  It’s funny though, we held off on the projects until Alicia was done with school for the semester and got her dance recital behind her.  Now that she should be ready to dive into projects, I’M in school and busier than all get out.  Still, I’m looking forward to the fun of this!

This is how Jesh and I spent our memorial day weekend! I brought my camera because I knew his mom would want good pictures of her daughter walking. I figured it’d be a great opportunity to take some pictures. I tested some different shutter speeds and apperatures just to mess around. To actually get this picture I used the automatic anti-blur mode on my camera I also made sure that I was using a large pixel that way I could crop out the unnecessary background space.

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Jesh walked down to ground level with his mom’s camera to get a good shot, I stayed in my seated closer to the top of the Gwinnett Areana. Guess who got the better pictures. . . With this being said, I am definitely more interested in photography and have a slightly better understanding of how it works. Also, Destinee was walking really, really fast so it was hard if you didn’t expect it and use a quicker shutter speed! (Thank you anti-blur mode!) I had planned to use a quick shutter speed to be able to take as many photos as possible so I was more prepared.  His mom was very thankful that I was able to capture some pictures of course!